Here A Box, There A Box, Everywhere A Box Box!

8-7-2009 – How time flies when you make a million (or two) trips back and forth to school to weld something. I may have to ask Santa for a welder! The rear boxes worked out quite well if I do say so myself. The frame for the hole became the foundation for all of the boxes. I reused a double box from the Fiero that was extended so the batteries would be below the floor. This box was bolted to the hole-frame. The four battery box was originally going to get bolted to the hole-frame, but I cut the support piece 1” too short, so it got welded in place – no big deal. The final two boxes were welded to the top of the hole-frame and are sort of saddle bags resting above floor level. I included 6 tabs (three on each side) to be bolted to the frame. I am quite sure this box would never go anywhere, but when dealing with an EV, better safe than sorry. I test fit all eight batteries and I think I will stay with this configuration. With the extra weight, the back of the Tracker dropped two inches – and this is without the Airlift 1000 inflated (more on this). You may also notice I did not paint them orange. All of these boxes will never be seen, so I saved the orange for the front boxes. After getting everything bolted in, I applied a good bead of silicone all the way around the hole-frame. When I get done with the rear box, it will be completely enclosed (top and bottom). As I do this, I will continue to seal things up to make it as water tight as possible.
Now back to the Airlift 1000… I finished routing the hoses and installing the air valve. When I put in the first shot of air, the back of the truck shot right up – a good thing. But as quickly as it went up, it went down. At first, it thought I had maybe missed a hose clamp, but the leak was coming from the top of the right air spring. I am not really sure what caused this, but the folks at Airlift just sent me a replacement the next day – great service (until I opened the box) – it was the wrong air spring. This particular unit was for a motor home – over twice as long as the original. I called back and the correct one arrived today – again great service. I reinstalled it today and they work like a charm. The 600 pounds of batteries back there should be just fine. I think it gave me over an inch of lift without the weight and should remain level (or better when the weight is added). The back is basically done and I even took time to fix the three bolts I broke off when I removed the gas tank (these bolts held a lower bumper that protected the gas tank). That bumper is freshly painted and back in place.
Now to the front. I was really trying to keep this as simple as possible. The last thing I wanted to happen was to close the hood and have sparks. I know I could make protective covers for the battery terminals, but I just wouldn’t feel that comfortable knowing that spark “could” fly if someone leaned on the hood to hard. I came up with a good three across set up that would set next to the firewall. It was far enough back to stay clear of the hood (I hoped) and leave me with some room. I drew it up and was about to head off to school when I realized that I already made three single boxes for the front. The three combined were too big for the three across plan I came up with. I would have felt guilty making another box when I already had the singles, so I went back to the original plan – a three level “C” shaped box (the picture makes more sense than the description). The left side would be the lowest, the center box the highest (turned 90 degrees and against the firewall) and the right box would be about two inches higher than the left box (to clear the steering components). I rigged everything up took my measurements. I would also use the original motor mount points on the frame to secure everything. These two mount points were at different levels and at different positions along the frame rails. My goal was to weld a 1-1/2” square tube to the top of a mounting plate that would be bolted to these motor mount point (have I lost you yet???). Then I would weld a cross bar (1” square tubing) onto the other tube and then weld the battery box to these crossbars. This method was used for the right and left boxes. The middle box (along the firewall) would then be welded to the other two boxes via more 1” square tubing and diagonally braced for added support. I added a couple of tabs on the back side to go to two empty bolt holes in the firewall (more of that better safe than sorry stuff). I was on a role at school when I realized I welded the right and left boxes at the wrong heights (backwards). It was so nice too!!! I cut it back apart, re-welded and patched things up and brought it home for at test fit – yea it fits! Now to the motor mount supports and more measurement (and welding). To make a long story short – the first trip back resulted in one plate being about ½” off from the holes – I just missed a measurement somewhere. I cut the one plate off, marked it and did the welding thing one more time. The end result was my Tetris/wedding cake battery box. Prime it, paint it orange and get it installed. If you are wondering about the fourth battery, it is about where the radiator was – in front and down low. This poor guy will have a close encounter with the commutator end of the motor if I ever hit the front end real hard (but that is not going to happen). From what I can tell, there should be plenty of room for the controller stuff and vacuum pump under the hood and I might put the charger in the back – we’ll see.
I have already conceded that I will not get done before school starts, but the hard stuff is done. I need to get things closed up in the back to keep the squirrels (and whatever wildlife that may move in) out and get my batteries where they belong. I may start the big wiring this weekend (or maybe just drink and take a break). And I still want to make a box (and door) to cover the batteries in the back. There are always a bunch of things to do with an EV, so the list never runs out – just time.
So until then…